My Top Houseplants of 2021
Here's my list of some of my favorite houseplants this year.
As usual, they're not ranked, as it's often too difficult to place one plant over the other. With this write up, I hope to provide you with the particular etymology, historical background, geography and associated information for each plant so that you may get to know them better.
I hope you sincerely enjoy this list and look forward to hearing from you!
I've narrated the forward and invite you to listen in browser.
(Mobile users may still listen in-browser down below)
First and Foremost:
We're crazy. With that said, keep in mind this one simple thing:
It's a hobby.
This isn't any different than collecting stamps (read that as: collecting small squares of parcel postage) where currently the highest valued stamp is $9,500,000.00, or collecting art where a recent Banksy piece sold for $12,100,000.00.
It's not that I mention these hobbies, or their prices to belittle them... no, rather, to sharpen the point that objects mean something to us. The stamps themselves may reconnect you with your grandfather's smile. The art may unlock something deep in your heart and soul. The rarity of an object may fuel a fire or fill a void. The result is often simple- happiness.
Money is a means to and end. How many of you enjoy money because of the way it smells, or how it feels between your fingers? Would you hoard it in piles merely to sleep on its surface, day dreaming of its particular shape and texture? No, we trade this currency as an exchange of our time...for our happiness, for things that have meaning. Us houseplant folk aren't any different.
A houseplant may be thought of as a reflection of our care and attention, often growing painfully slow, teaching patience and dedication. They are the manifestations of hard work and love. More than a purchase, they are the adoption of nature. A promise to oneself to do good. With each adoption, a pledge to be better than you were before.
Houseplants may represent the beauty of nature incarnate, vesseled in our living rooms, reliant on our attention. They remind us of deeper truths: where we come from or where we're going, who we are, and what we're made of.
Above: Your's truly with Alocasia Regal Shield
Let's Get Started
(Philodendron Black Gold)
($60-$3,500 depending on size)
First noted by
Jean Jules Linden & Édouard André- renowned botanists of the late 19th century during an expedition to South America, this species was first described in their published work "L'Illustration horticole" in 1873.
If you're into botanical journals and botanical illustrations(especially of antiquity), for the love of the gods...check this 148 year old published journal out. Every page has been meticulously scanned and uploaded, where you can enjoy every illustration as seen by the botanists, and note the species discovered on that expedition. Check out the write up for P. melanochrysum on page 198, as well as it's juvenile illustration on page 150 (shown: right).
Endemic to the wet Andean foothills of Colombia, P. melanochrysum grows approximately 500m above sea level in the provinces of Choco and Antioquia.
Originally, the plant was named after it's identifier Édouard André as Philodendron andreanum and returned to Europe for study and cultivation by Veitch Nurseries. You may recognize the ubiquitous "Veitch" by its variant and cultivar name "Veitchii" from John Veitch, a renowned European Horticulturist of the period.
I encourage you to jump down the rabbit hole of "Veitch Nurseries" as their history is rich and fascinating.
-In the wild-
A quick note on caring for your P. melanochrysum. Your plant will not thrive unless it is home in the jungles of Colombia, or a conservatory. This is true of almost any houseplant.
Your plant may grow rapidly and large, but I am hesitant to say it's thriving. With that being said, Ken's Philodendrons has a care sheet that I've followed to care for mine. I high recommend it and have shared it here for your pleasure:
Thrive in moist soils with high organic matter and grow best when provided with a mossy post or burlap wrapped pole to climb. Philodendron plants can be grown in pots, hanging baskets or outdoors as a ground cover or beautiful tree wrap. Indoors plants thrive at temperatures between 55°- 80°F and in lower light conditions than other house plants. In the ground or up an arbor, philodendrons get big and are often unrecognizable from their potted juvenile state. They add a wonderfully tropical accent to any well-lit space or cascading from your favorite hanging planter. In very cold zones a containerized Philodendron can be brought inside for the winter months. Be sure to avoid frost and freezing temperatures.
Philodendron grow very well in patio and indoor containers. Allow enough room for growth generally a 10″ to a 20″ diameter, 10″ deep container will suffice to get started. Remember the looser the roots, the taller and healthier your plant will be. When the plant becomes root bound its growth will slow, at that point it is time for a larger pot.
Melanochrysum Philodendrons enjoy well drained but moist, rich organic mix. Remember try to stay away from wet, mucky or dry, sandy soils.
To help establish your new Melanochrysum Philodendron, fertilize sparingly at least 6 inches away from the base, tri-annually with a slow time released product. Unfertilized they will tend to grow very slowly. Note: The heavy salts in cheaper fertilizers will damage the roots and possibly kill the plant.
GROW ZONE & LIGHT
Best outdoors if grown in zone 9b-11, This Philodendron requires 70-85% sunlight. Depending on your location filtered sun is best. In the northern end of their grow zone Melanochrysum plants should be brought indoors or protected during the winter months. The patio zone is 4b-11 which means the potted plant will flourish over the summer months in colder zones but must be brought inside before frost.
-A quick side note on heteroblasty-
I don't want to linger too long on this topic but hopefully, I can cover enough to leave you better informed of heteroblasty, what it is, and why it's important.
Many thousands of plant species, including P. melanochrysum undergo an abrupt genetic morphogenesis (shape and form) which plainly put, is just a significant and abrupt change in form that occurs over the lifespan of certain plants. Characteristics affected include internode length and stem structure as well as leaf form, size and arrangement.
This is most commonly noticed in the houseplant world with M. deliciosa. The juvenile form is typically nearly unrecognizable from the mature adult state as is the case with P. melanochrysum, E. Aureum etc.
Many in the houseplant hobby who aren't classically educated in botany or horticulture do not recognize the drastic changes and may misidentify a species due to its massively changed morphological characteristics.
I want to show you two examples- one more common than the other.
I cannot express how many people come across pictures of the mature form of E. aureum and not realize that they have the same species hanging in a basket by the windowsill.
Also something to note, letting your vining plants hang will almost always prevent them from maturing. Vining plants prefer to climb, not hang)
One last example for good measure
Another variant that I commonly see thrown around the houseplant world as an independent species...
I hate to say this but...
We're the problem. Us. Houseplant people.
At some point houseplant sellers found out that giving a variant of the same species, an entirely new and different species name, will command a much stronger price.
Now, rather than identifying P. hederaceum var. Micans as a variant of P. hederaceum, they decided to just call it plain old Philodendron Micans. Sure enough, new species...higher price.
It's ok...I guess.
The botanist in me wants to claw my eyes out but, then I realize it doesn't really matter. As long as more people understand that just like humans, if a species of plant is separated by either space or time, they will generate numerous morphological differences, then thats all that matters.
A species will be independently identified by its genus and then classified further by being given a species name. The problem with this is, many plants undergo this heteroblasty, which radically morphs them into different looking plants later in life.
Another plant is discovered in the same genus but looks radically different than the first, and subsequently assigned a totally new species name...even though they're the same species. This is known as a synonym. When a plant new plant is misidentified by its genus, then its is known as a basionym.
phew. OK. Back to the list
(Sometimes known as M. esqueleto 😭)
($150-$500 per leaf)
M. epipremnoides has a fairly interesting and confusing backstory that we don't need to dive into entirely, but, I will provide enough information to educate you on the beginnings.
First, I want to express that this plant's controversy cup runneth over. There is a ton of misinformation circulating the electro-sphere regarding what species it is exactly. undoubtedly, you will see claims that the plant is indeed not its own species but rather a large form variant of M. adansonii. (This isn't true). This plant is indexed and accepted into Kew science records as M. epipremnoides and not a variant.
It is very possible this misinformation started in the late 1960's due to a botanical journal published by Jonker-Verhoef and Jonker (1966).
"This Journal included Monstera epipremnoides in the flora of Surinam, based on the collection Wessels-Boer 872, housed at Utrecht. However, this specimen is now identified as M. adansonii var. laniata. Monstera epipremnoides should be excluded from consideration as a taxon in the flora of Surinam and as a stand alone pieces in the genus."
-Kew Science, Royal Botanical Garden
It's also worth noting that the name esqueleto seems to have been born from this same misinformation in the age of Pinterest and Etsy. M. epipremnoides was never M. "NOID" because it's always been M. epipremnoides. Sellers and collectors would often trade and sell a plant they assumed was M. epipremnoides, when it was in fact, not.
Geek Notes Cont'd.
A simple standout way to identify M. epipremnoides seems to be the primary lateral veins which bisect the perforation to the midrib as seen left (or above if mobile)
As most Aroids, M. epipremnoides is an Epiphytic climber in cloud forest.
Adult stem: 2 – 3 cm thick. Petiole: 35 – 50 cm long, vaginate to within 5 cm of the lamina base, the sheath wings persistent.
Lamina: ovate, subcoriaceous, 35 – 55 cm long, 22 – 35 cm wide, pinnatifid and perforate, the pinnae 12 – 20 in number on each side, 1.0 – 2.5 cm wide, the sinuses extending to the midrib. Primary lateral veins 1 or 2 per pinna, secondary lateral veins parallel to the primary; the perforations mostly small, 0.5 – 2.0 cm across, round to elliptic, located along the midrib, other perforations very elongate and extending from the midrib nearly to the margin.
Peduncle: about 1 cm thick, 20 – 30 cm long. Spathe: 15 – 22 cm long. Flowering spadix: cylindric, 9 – 12 cm long, about 2 cm thick, the pistils truncate.
As a houseplant:
I've found this species wonderfully easy to grow and care for. I've given mine oak bark to adhere to as it climbs and, has produced around 12 leaves in a little over a year ranging from 25cm to 40cm.
As the plant ages, like other aroids, the perforations grow and increase in number. Rather than growing much wider than long (think M. deliciosa), this species will grow much longer than wide.
M. epipremnoides has a more "elegant" look to the leaves when compared with M. adansonii or M. adansonii narrow form. I've watched this species go from $100 for 2-3 leaves to as much as $3,000 for several adult leaves in about 2 year's time. As mentioned earlier, the introduction of a new name "M. esqueleto" as driven sales and desire through the roof- but, it's still M. epipremnoides.
Expect this plant to sell out quickly when offered as it's been highly coveted recently.
A quick note on caring for your M. epipremnoides. Your plant will not thrive unless it is in its home the jungles of Costa Rica, or a conservatory. This is true of almost any houseplant.
Your plant may grow rapidly and large, but I am hesitant to say it's thriving.
Use a well-draining soil mix. Monstera Epipremnoides does not like to stay in soggy soil. This will lead to root rot very fast. A good aroid soil mix is best.
A proper soil mix for aroids usually consists of pine bark, perlite, coco coir and some parts of a good potting mix.
Use twice the amount of pine bark versus the other soil mixture ingredients as the chunky pine bark helps to aerate the soil. Epipremnoides likes soil with high organic matter that is moist.
Prefers indirect light. In nature, Monstera Epipremnoides gets dappled sunlight through the rainforest canopy. Can take direct sunlight but make sure that it gets a maximum of 2-6 hours as anything more might burn the leaves.
An east-facing window is best where your houseplant gets a couple of direct sunlight in the morning when the sun isn’t too strong.
Water about once a week and make sure that the soil is just slightly damp before you water again. If the soil is still very wet and damp do not water as soggy soil for an extended time leads to root rot.
When watering water thoroughly and make sure that the water is flowing through the soil mixture and that a big part is coming out of the pot immediately. That is a good indicator that the soil is well-draining enough.
Monstera Epipremnoides can be grown outdoors in USDA hardiness zones from 9b -11. Temperatures should be kept between 55°F – 80°F ( 13°C – 27°C). They sometimes grow in mild to cold temperatures in nature as they are found in high elevations.
High humidity is important for all Monsteras. The Monstera Epipremnoides is no exception. Use a humidifier, and mist daily to keep levels high.
What a beautiful plant.
First botanically identified back in 1878 by Thomas Moore (1821-1887), a British botanist on one of his final expeditions to Colombia.
First published in the 1878 edition of "The Florist and the Pomologist" on page 101, this plant was described by Moore as:
"...of similar habit to A. Veitchii, and has leaves
of a similar form, but plain instead of corru-
gated. The leaves grow from 2 ft.
long, and from 7 in. to 8 in. wide, and are of a
rich deep green colour, with a fine velvety
lustre, on which the pale-coloured costa and
veins are displayed to great advantage. It is
a noble subject, and will be welcomed by the
cultivator of plants with fine foliage, on account
cated to M. Warocque, an eminent Belgian
Both these plants have received, and well
deserved, the award of a Certificate of Merit
from the Royal Horticultural and the Royal
It's of particular interest I think to show you how people of the period thought of tropical plants kept in the home with this quote from The Florist and the Pomologist:
"They are all tropical, requiring stove-heat, -which is,
perhaps, their greatest drawback."
Tropicals- still a royal pain even for houseplant enthusiasts 143 years later!
Geek Notes Cont'd:
Appressed or loosely attached climber; internodes 3-5 cm long, 3.5 cm diam., medium green and semi-glossy, becoming gray.
Cataphyll fibers pale, semi- intact at 1-2 upper nodes but promptly fibrous and deciduous.
Petioles terete, dark green, matte, densely speckled, brittle.
Leaf blades moderately coriaceous, matte, very dark green and velvety above, slightly paler beneath.
Midrib convex, much paler and speckled above, convex and scarcely paler below.
Primary lateral veins narrowly raised and much paler above, weakly raised and slightly paler below.
Tertiary veins obscure.
Spathe green, erect (just beginning to open).
Spadix dark green, weakly glossy.
Please check out the actual botanical journal published in 1878 where you can read about all of the plants discovered on the expedition, and enjoy some history while you're at it!
-In the wild-
As an hemiepipmyte, A. warocqueanum will often start out rooted in soil, or mixed media (dense moss on a tree), later moving opting to cling to the surface of surrounding trees or rocks.
A quick note on caring for your A. warocqueanum. Your plant will not thrive unless it is in its home the jungles of Colombia, or a conservatory. This is true of almost any houseplant.
Your plant may grow rapidly and large, but I am hesitant to say it's thriving.
Monstera deliciosa var. 'Borsigiana' albo variegata
Where to start?
I want to speak specifically on the "Borsigiana" name since there seems to be a bit of confusion on this.
The name Borsigiana was first noted in Wochenschr. Vereines Beförd. Gartenbaues Königl. Preuss. Staaten 5: 275 in 1862, where it was introduced as a new species, but then, was later redacted as a new species in 2002 by Govaerts, R. & Frodin, D.G.
(World Checklist and Bibliography of Araceae (and Acoraceae): 1-560. The Board of Trustees of the Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. [Cited as Monstera deliciosa.])
So Borsigiana, botanically speaking, is a variant of M. deliciosa.
(For M. deliciosa standard form, please check out this 172 year old dutch journal noting the species' botanical characteristics. ❤️)
Let me say this plainly...
Every plant species in the wild will exhibit natural variations, much in the same way that human species will display variations within the same "race". When the Borsigiana variation of deliciosa was discovered, it was entered as its own species in the genus Monstera.
Years later, it was realized that this species was merely a variant of M. deliciosa and as such, should be named:
M. deliciosa var. Borsigiana, or in the variegated case...
M. deliciosa var. Borsigiana albo variegata
Geek Notes Cont'd:
First identified and later published in Vidensk. Meddel. Naturhist. Foren. Kjøbenhavn 1: 19 (1849) by Frederik Liebmann.
Liebmann was a Danish botanist who studied botany at the University of Copenhagen, although he never obtained a formal qualification. He went on study-tours of Germany and Norway before becoming lecturer at the Danish Royal Veterinary School in 1837.
In 1840 he travelled to Cuba and Mexico; on his return in 1845 he was appointed Professor of Botany at the University of Copenhagen. He became Director of the university's Botanical Garden in 1852, a post he held until his death four years later.
M. deliciosa var. Borsigiana has leaves roughly 50% the mature size of M. deliciosa, and will typically be missing the perforated holes that appear near the midrib while maturing into adulthood.
Perhaps the biggest identifier if you're still not sure, are the missing geniculum ruffles. The Geniculum is a node or joint of a stem, or in this case, the petiole. It is found where the petiole and the leaf blade meet. The geniculum of M. deliciosa var. borsigiana, are not ruffled; they bear a smooth, unbroken surface.
Left: M. deliciosa geniculum, ruffled in appearance. Right: Absence of geniculum on my M. deliciosa var. Borsigiana albo variegata
I've added this to the list not because it's new, or even particularly rare (I think almost any higher-end plant shop will carry this plant), but rather, because this plant has time and time again proven to be a mainstay in the hobby.
✔️ Beautiful variegation.
✔️Easy enough to grow.
✔️Easily propagated and sold or traded.
M. deliciosa var. Borsigiana albo variegata really checks a lot of boxes for many, and I absolutely understand why.
With that being said, certain variations of this plant, especially a mature albo variegata with many half-moon leaves could set you back $10,000+. I'm not going to remark on why the price is so high, or whether or not it should be, but I will say that I certainly understand it more than other plants...
(looking at you P. spiritus sancti 🤨)
A quick note on caring for your M. deliciosa var. 'Borsigiana' Albo Variegata. Your plant will not thrive unless it is in its home jungles of Colombia, or a conservatory. This is true of almost any houseplant.
Your plant may grow rapidly and large, but I am hesitant to say it's thriving.
Moreover, the variegation places this plant at a large disadvantage at photosynthesizing, and will often die in the wild. Special care will be needed for it to do well in the home.
The Variegated Monstera requires similar care to that of the solid green Monstera deliciosa. The main difference is the white portion of the variegated Monstera leaves cannot absorb light, so the plant needs to work twice as hard to photosynthesize. Therefore, low light conditions are not ideal and you should keep your variegated Monstera in bright ambient light to make it happy.Monsteras appreciate a warm, humid environment, a good amount of water and gentle sunlight. Place your Monstera away from vents and drafts where it would be subjected to dry air and in a spot where it can receive medium to bright indirect light.
Monsteras prefer soil that is consistently lightly moist. As epiphytes with aerial roots, they are sensitive to overwatering, so they don’t want to sit in soggy soil. If the top 2 inches of the soil are dry, your plant could use a drink.
Rotate your plant periodically to ensure even growth on all sides and dust the leaves often so the plant can photosynthesize efficiently. When dusting the leaves, also take the opportunity to inspect the undersides and keep an eye out for pests.
The variegation is on the stem as well as on the leaves. It is possible for the plant to revert and turn entirely green again.
The opposite is also possible, namely that the Variegated Monstera Deliciosa is becoming whiter and whiter as it grows. Once it is producing fully white leaves called ghost leaves, it will need to be cut back as no leaves also mean no chlorophyll and no photosynthesis.
You can cut a Variegated Monstera Deliciosa once it is growing into the direction of either growing more white or more green in its leaves and stem. You just have to cut back to the point where stems and leaves had the right ratio.
Make sure that cuttings always have at least a node as this is needed to produce new plants from the cuttings you can propagate.
Monstera obliqua var. 'Peru'
Where to begin...
If you've made it this far on this lengthy list then you're probably remarkably unsurprised to see that M. obliqua var. 'Peru' made the cut.
First, lets get the geeky Botany stuff out of the way...
M. obliqua var. 'peru' was first scientifically noted in 1845 and published in Linnaea 18: 79.
"Slender climbing epiphyte on trees, saplings, or shrubs. Juvenile: terrestrial creeper, the leaves entire, exserted and erect, the lamina membranaceous, ovate to lanceolate. Adult stem: green, smooth, terete, 2 – 7 mm thick, the internodes 1 – 6 cm long, occasionally producing hanging and creeping stolons with internodes 10 – 30 cm long. Petiole: 5 – 15 cm long, vaginate for most of its length, the sheath wings deciduous; geniculum 5 – 15 mm long. Lamina: membranaceous, quite variable in shape, ranging from lanceolate 35 cm long and 4 cm wide with an acute base to broadly ovate, 14 cm long and 12 cm wide with a truncate to subcordate base; mostly ovate, somewhat falcate, 8 – 15 cm long and 4 – 6 cm wide, the base oblique, unequal, with one side about twice as wide as the other; usually entire but sometimes perforated, the holes one many in a single series on each side of the midrib; primary lateral veins not prominent. Inflorescences: produced sympodially in groups of six to eight, rarely fewer. Peduncle: terete, 1 – 2 mm thick, 7 – 15 cm long, elongating throughout the development of the fruit. Spathe: green to white when immature, becoming a bright yellow at maturity, 4 – 7 cm long, 3 – 5 cm across when fully open, acuminate or mucronate for 3 – 8 mm at the tip. Flowering spadix: deep yellow, 5 – 10 mm thick, 2.5 - 6.0 mm long. Fruiting spadix: green to olive-green tinged with orange when immature, becoming lighter and finally deep orange at maturity, 10 – 15 mm thick, 4 – 8 cm long; the berries globose, 5 – 8 mm in diameter, capped by the persistent stylar region, lacking trichosclereids, or if trichosclereids present confined to the walls, very rarely present in the stylar region; the berries free from one another." (Kew Science Royal Botanical Garden, 2011)
"Monstera obliqua has been divided into a number of putative species, principally on the basis of differences in leaf shape, but these variations are of little taxonomic significance. For example, about 80% of the specimens of this species have entire leaves; the rest have leaves which are slightly to profusely perforated. The material with perforated leaves has been separated as M. expilata, but this variation shows no ecological or geographic pattern except that the perforated forms are absent from Panama. Furthermore, some individuals have mostly entire but occasionally perforated leaves.
There is also great variation in the relative width of the leaves, which is correlated with the shape of the leaf base. The shape ranges from narrow, lanceolate leaves with acute bases to broadly ovate leaves with truncate or subcordate bases. The narrowest have been separated as Monstera falcifolia and the widest as M. sagotiana, but again this variation shows no ecological or geographic correlation, and it is impossible to draw a line separating the plants into two or more meaningful groups on this basis." (Kew Science Royal Botanical Garden, 2011)
"It's never obliqua"
A couple of years ago, during the large rise in popularity with millennials and houseplants, the phrase "it's never obliqua" started circulating. It was a fun phrase to really sharpen the point that if you have to wonder if you have purchased M. obliqua var. 'Peru', you almost certainly did not.
For a while, many newcomers to the hobby would see pictures of M. adansonii and relate it quickly to its unicorn sister...hoping to have won the lottery by picking up a mislabeled obliqua var. 'Peru'. The plant has become so popular and so ubiquitous in Facebook groups and Instagram stories that, perhaps it's high time the phrase was changed to "It's always obliqua"
✔️If you're looking at a plant that looks like M. adansonii but it's $4,000... It's obliqua.
✔️If you're looking at a plant that looks like M. adansonii but looks emaciated...It's obliqua.
✔️If you're looking at a plant on a website that sells P. spiritus sancti...it's obliqua.
✔️If you're looking at an instagram post with hundreds of thousands of likes...it's obliqua.
Ok I'm mostly kidding, but in all seriousness, I think that as the huge growth spurt in the hobby starts to level out, everyone seems to have developed a keen eye for M. obliqua var. 'Peru'.
A quick note on caring for your M. obliqua var. 'Peru'. Your plant will not thrive unless it is in its home jungles of South America/ Central America, or a conservatory. This is true of almost any houseplant.
Your plant may grow rapidly and large, but I am hesitant to say it's thriving.
It will demand regular watering, but if you overwater it, the plant might start dying out. I always recommend smaller waterings rather than large ones for the simple reason that it is less stressful on the plant to be dehydrated than hyper-hydrated. Usually, a break between two waterings is a few days, but this can vary from season to season, and depends on humidity. In spring and summer, you might need to water the plant more frequently, because the temperature is hot, humidity is low and water easily evaporates. During winter, it might come down to just one or two waterings per week.
This criterion can be easily met. Because it naturally grows in forests, it does require a fair amount of light, but it should never be direct sunlight. Find a good LED grow light. A trick I use to modulate the amount of light coming from the LED, without moving either the plant or the light is to use screen door mesh.
A roll of screen door mesh from your favorite hardware store probably costs less than ten dollars. You can place this under your grow light and fold it in half as necessary to modulate the amount of direct light reaching the leaf blade surface. This simulates dappled light that the plant may receive in the jungle.
The best temperature for Monstera Obliqua is between fifteen and twenty Celsius degrees. Keep in mind that it is always the best to keep it around twenty, then lowering it to fifteen.
Creating these conditions is the easiest in indoors, where the temperature can be easily held constant in a controlled environment.
I recommend using a humidifier with this plant, especially when the plant is a juvenile. This plant requires unusually high humidity and I would recommend keeping it above 70% RH at a minimum. even 85%RH wouldn't be too high.
Proper soil should be should be slightly acidic, but not going below a pH of 5 .If you are worried about the soil being too acidic than the safest option is to keep it around pH7. Secondly, the soil should be based on peat and more airy mixtures. Peat is important because it retains water, allowing the plant to absorb most of it. Loam is another ingredient the soil should have. It will create small air pockets, so the roots can freely develop and reach all the nutrients.The soil can contain other parts that will hold water such as coconut coir. Also, always go for organic soils.
◆ ◆ ◆
This has been fun!
I've really enjoyed researching as much as I can for part one of this list. It's my hope that you've learned a little more about some of the top houseplants this year.
Whether you're new into houseplants since the start of the quarantine, or you've been into houseplants your whole life, I encourage you to research as much as possible about your plants and their habitat.
While the study of plants has been taking place since the time of the early Greeks, it hasn't really been a scientific study for much more than 300 years (that's fairly young in terms of branches of science). A lot has happened in those 300 years and much of the history is not only available to read online in print via scans in public domain, but actually quite fascinating!
Thank you for coming along with me and I look forward to sharing the final part to this list in the very near future!
Much love 💚